Monday, April 14, 2014

Sint Maarten...Our *Unexpected* Stay in Simpson Bay Marina

One thing we have learned about cruising is to expect the unexpected.  While I was home in the States visiting my Mama, LA stayed in Sint Maarten to babysit LuLu and work on boat projects.  

One project was to add another solar panel to Genesis.  Our refrigerator is an absolute energy hog, and we wanted to increase our solar panels from 440 watts to 660 watts. With the help of new friends John and Frances aboard Kia Ora, LA installed the additional solar panel. 
Our watermaker was on the blink, so we were having two pieces of equipment rebuilt by a local company.  Therefore, we could not make water, which finally leads me to the point of this story....  LA had to go to a nearby fuel dock, purchase water in 6.5 gallon jerry jugs, and haul the water back to the boat.  Three days before I was scheduled to fly home, he was lifting a 55 pound jug of water onto the boat from the dinghy and a boat came by and threw a huge wake. It rocked LA right in the middle of his lift and wrenched his back.  It was a bad injury.  He ended up flat on his back. He called me in the States and said he needed medical attention.  I contacted our local hometown physician and returned to Sint Maarten armed with muscle relaxers, pain medication, and a heating pad. 

LA could not get out of the bed. I needed to get back to Genesis once I arrived at the airport on St. Martin. Our friends had all left the island, heading to Antigua.  I got on the internet and found the business of the local Cruiser's VHF radio net controller, Mike "Shrimpy" Glanz. I explained my situation and he put out a call on the VHF and found a couple (David and Libby aboard s/v Peregrine) to pick me up at a nearby dock upon my arrival from the airport. The cruising community is wonderful!  Where else can you be in a foreign land and just pick up the phone or radio and get someone to agree to pick you up in a boat at 10:30 at night and transport you to your boat?? Imagine doing something like that back in the States. Forget it!

When I arrived at the boat, LA was in tremendous pain and could not stand up.  I immediately started his medications.  The following morning, I got on the radio and asked for help.  I found out that there was a physical therapist that came highly recommended.  One of the cruisers went to shore and brought her to the boat. (Yet another act of kindness from the cruising community!) She examined LA and felt it best to get him to the hospital for an X-ray and treatment.  He was in too much pain to transport him by dinghy, so I set about getting Genesis moved to a nearby marina, Simpson Bay Marina.  

I had to catch the opening of the Causeway bridge and travel a short distance to the marina. I knew I could get Genesis through the Causeway bridge and to the dock, but getting her in the slip without hitting another boat was going to be another another matter. Once again, the local cruiser's radio net controller, Mike, came to the rescue.  He lined up three men to come to the boat and help me get the Genesis safely to the dock. 

It was an international event... 






Bob from the UK was at the helm. He was excited about being aboard a Shannon.  He had heard about them and wanted to experience how she handled underway. 






Also assisting was Girard from France, an experienced boat captain...

and Mike, an experienced single-hander from the United States...







Girard and Mike planned the strategy to safely get Genesis into the slip upon our arrival to the marina. 






Girard got in his dinghy so that he could "fend off" Genesis if she got too close to the concrete finger pier on the dock.  Poor LA, all he could do was lie in his bed and wonder how things were going topsides as his beloved Genesis was under the control of unknown captains.  I gave Bob instructions as to how fast to approach the dock and when to put the boat in reverse as I pushed our boat away from the boat in the next slip. It was a successful maneuver and we made it in without a scratch to Genesis or the nearby boat. Whew! I was grateful to these guys for the help!

Here's OUR girl Genesis safely in her slip at IGY Simpson Bay Marina...
Immediately upon arrival to the slip, I checked in at the marina office, rented a car, and with the help of the marina dock master, loaded LA into a golf cart, transported him down the dock and into the rental car.  He was in terrible pain.  We arrived at the hospital emergency room and we were able to experience firsthand health care in the Caribbean. We were immediately seen by the ER physician, LA was given a shot of morphine and a non-steroidal for the pain,  then was taken to Radiology for X-rays of his back.  The diagnosis... a compression between two vertebrae, prescriptions for more muscle relaxers and a recommendation that we return to the States to see a neurologist.

There was no way LA was in any condition to fly home.  Terese Thomas, an osteopathic physical therapist from Australia, came highly recommended and we wanted to try physical therapy first.  We returned to the boat and I put LA to bed and heavily medicated him.  I contacted Terese and she returned to the boat that afternoon. After examining his X-rays, she felt that she could help LA with his injury. She began treatment and, after a week, he was feeling better and in less pain.  He was bedridden for 3 weeks allowing his back to heal. Twice a week for six weeks, Terese treated LA. He was able to get out and start walking again. He is now back in tip-top shape due to Terese.  We are so grateful to her!

During LA's recovery, we stayed on the dock at Simpson Bay Marina.  Riding around in a dinghy to get to shore for PT treatment was not going to be good for LA's back.  

So, what did we do while we were at the dock?  At first, not too much.  LA could not get off the boat for the first 3 weeks, so I kept myself occupied with my photography and did a lot of walking.  I tried to keep LA comfortable and pain-free, and tried to keep him from going stir crazy.  Eventually, he was able to get out and get off the boat.  He couldn't even walk down the dock at first.  




After a month passed, I rented a car and had the dock hands get him to the car in the golf cart.  We drove around the island.  It was good for his psyche (and mine!)  just to get off the boat for the day.  





LA was able to get out of the car for brief periods and enjoy the sights! This photo was taken at Coralita Beach, on the east side of the island.




We stopped at a beach-side restaurant near Orient Bay and had appetizers and drinks. LA was able to creep to a table and enjoy being in the sunshine.





It felt good to return to the land of the living and do something normal and fun for a change!  Ahhh... my first pina colada in a month! Fabulous!







We stayed at Simpson Bay Marina over two months. Located on the Dutch side of the island, it was in a great location. If we had to be stranded somewhere, this was a good place to be. It was close to the grocery store, close to several marine businesses, and had great places to hike located only a short distance away.



We found some MikroKopter Drone Footage on YouTube that used a GoPro3 camera to film aerial footage of  Simpson Bay Marina by Rick Moore. Our girl Genesis comes into view on time mark 1:04 through 1:11. She's the boat next to 2 empty slips. You can see our 3 navy-blue solar panels and our green canvas. Great video of the marina that's been our home for the last 2 months in Sint Maarten. Click the yellow highlighted text below to view the video:
Simpson Bay Marina Aerial Footage





Simpson Bay Marina has 24-hour security, which was nice because no one from the public was allowed on the dock. It afforded us privacy and the docks were very quiet.




There is a public dinghy dock located next to the marina office.




The ladies who worked in the office, Jessica and Sharika, were always happy to see us and helpful.  We dropped our laundry off at the office and it was sent out and returned to us the following day.  When we needed a rental car, they contacted the company and set it up for us.  



We already knew Johanna from the fuel dock.  This is where we obtained fuel, water, and ice when we were at anchor.  She and LA were big buddies and she gave us service with a smile.


While we were staying at the marina, we indulged our favorite past-time.... looking at yachts, yachts, and more yachts!


Simpson Bay lagoon, the largest saltwater lagoon in the Caribbean, is also home port to the largest mega yacht fleet in the Caribbean.  During the high season December to April, there are multi-million dollar floating palaces everywhere.  Sint Maarten is the playground for the rich (and not-so-rich) in the winter season.  

We had seen mega yachts when we stayed in the Bahamas at Emerald Bay Marina, but Sint Maarten was a whole new ballgame.  There were SO many mega yachts that it became routine to ride along and see yacht after yacht after yacht. We watched them come and go, squeezing through the bridge heading to the next destination. Sometimes for fun, I would look up the yachts on the internet and find out about them. If you like boats, read on.  Or, you can just look at the photos.

Mega Yacht Annaeva is a 184-foot motor yacht custom built in 2007 by Benetti.  The yacht has a steel hull with a aluminium superstructure with a beam of 34 feet and a 10'5"ft draft. Annaeva has a cruising speed of 12 knots, and a range of 5000 nautical miles.  She is owned by Russian Roustam Tariko, owner of Russian Standard Vodka and Russian Standard Bank. Most of these yachts cost about $300,000 a foot to build. Yep, that's about $55 million.... Nice digs if you can get them!
What we hadn't seen in the Bahamas were mega sailing yachts.  Sint Maarten is also the winter playground for these beautiful luxury yachts.  We met some of the crew for these gorgeous sailing yachts.  In most cases, there would be a core crew on board (anywhere from 4 to 12, according to the size of the yacht). Most of these yachts headed to the Mediterranean after the high season. Additional crew would be flown in when it was time to move the boat.  







The most beautiful of the sailing yachts we saw was the 90-foot mahogany hull 'Tempus Fugit'

Built by Arkin Pruva Yachts in Antalya, Turkey, Tempus Fugit (Latin for "time flies")  is a majestic J-Class inspired classic sloop. Launched in 2013, she is not only beautiful, but is also a strong racer, holding her own against carbon sailing yachts and having proved her racing prowess by finishing a respectable third in her class during the Loro Piana Caribbean Superyacht Regatta & Rendezvous.


Tempus Fugit is undeniably striking, with low deckhouses and long overhangs that recall a bygone era. She can comfortably sleep up to 6 guests and a crew of 2-3 professionals. Built in cold moulded wood/epoxy supported by 38 laminated timber frames, her unpainted, varnished mahogany hull is beyond eye catching. We spent a lot of time on the dock admiring the beautiful details of this yacht. She is truly a work of art and is built to stand the test of time.



'La Cattiva' is a 122.7-foot aluminum hull ketch, launched by Pendennis Shipyard in the United Kingdom in 1991 as 'Taramber'.  She was renamed in 2009. La Cattiva has a beam of 26'10"ft and a 11'5"ft draft. Designed to be handled by a small crew, La Cattiva has an owner’s double cabin and three additional twin-bedded guest cabins. She has a cruising speed of 12 knots and a fuel range of 3000 miles.

The main saloon and wheel house has a spectacular continuous 315 degree view through tinted glass, with an open plan design leading down to the main saloon and dining room. There are three regular crew members for La Cattiva. They were leaving St. Martin and going directly to the Azores for a stopover, then heading to the Mediterranean for the summer months. They had flown in two extra crew members for the trip.



On the next dock over was 'Sindonemo', a 100-foot luxury yacht with a fiberglass hull.  Built by Yachting Developments of New Zealand and launched in 2000, the $5.4 million dollar Sindonemo has a beam of 21'3"ft and a draft of 9'6" ft. She has a cruising speed of 10 knots, carries almost 400 gallons of fuel and has a cruising range of 2500 miles. 





Sindonemo was also on the way to the Mediterranean for the summer.  The crew is shown leaving the dock for a sea trial to make sure everything is "shipshape" before departing for a 3-week trip across the Atlantic.








The ‘Axonite’, a 69 feet yacht, was built in Amsterdam in 2010. The design process was a collaboration between Satellite Yacht Design and Guido de Groot Design. With her bronze painted hull, black carbon rigging and sleek appearance she is an unusual yacht with a futuristic look. Indeed, the yacht is named for axonite, “a miracle substance in the Dr. Who universe.” (Dr. Who is a popular British sci-fi series). 
Photo Credit: Sailing Yacht Axonite, Lounging on Deck in the Azores






The deck and the cockpit are not teak but a light aesthetic composite decking with the logo ‘Axonite’ milled into it in various areas. 






On deck the most striking feature is the black carbon mast of over 90 feet and the Park Avenue boom. In the lazarette an automatic dinghy launch system is installed for releasing the inflated dinghy. Thanks to the lift keel (4.5 feet to10 feet) the yacht can enter shallow waters and harbors.









Photo Credit: Sailing Yacht Axonite, Facebook


Axonite departed Sint Maarten on May 10, traveled to Horta, Azores, and arrived in Portugal on June 7. Here is a photo from Axonite's Facebook page as she traveled across the Atlantic.







Photo Credit: Sailing Yacht Axonite, Facebook





She traveled along the coast of Spain and arrived on the Spanish island of Mallorca (Majorca) (tennis great Rafa Nadal's home island) on June 16. Axonite is now preparing for cruising around Sardinia, Corsica, and Elba. 






There are also mega sailing yachts for charter.. IF you have the cash! 

Sail yacht  'Artemis' is a 144-ft luxury yacht charter sloop. Built by Fitzroy Yachts of New Zealand, aluminum hull Artemis was launched in late 2007. She has a 22 ft. draft with a hull speed of 12 knots.  
The weekly charter price? $13,000 PLUS expenses! 

If you would like to have an affordable chartered fully crewed yacht vacation in the British Virgin Islands, we would highly recommend Steve and Deb Schlosser aboard their Voyager 44 Catamaran.  Here is the link to their charter listing: Alternate Latitude
Check out their Facebook page: Alternate Latitude! 
We have a fascination with boats... large and small. Although it's fun to indulge our curiosity and find out about the mega yachts, we are very happy aboard our own little yacht! We are so fortunate to be able to explore the Caribbean! It's a great retirement lifestyle.  Even when life throws us twists and turns, we try to keep a positive attitude and find a way to keep living the dream!
Our girl Genesis

Wednesday, March 19, 2014

Thrilla on the Way to Anguilla

Wind Microburst! 
Photo Credit: Examiner.com

We have owned Genesis for 17 years.  We have always heard about “wind microbursts” affecting sailboats, but we had never personally experienced one. Until now. With dear friends aboard.  Isn’t that always the way it always happens? As Captain Ron says “If something’s gonna happen, it’s gonna happen out there!”. 


Photo Credit: bom.com.au



What’s a wind microburst? A microburst is a pattern of intense winds that descends from the clouds, usually rain clouds, hits the ground, and fans out horizontally. 





Microbursts are short-lived, usually lasting from about 5 to 15 minutes, and they are relatively compact, usually affecting an area about 0.5 to 2 miles in diameter. They are often but not always associated with thunderstorms or strong rains. By causing a sudden change in wind direction or speed-a condition known as wind shear-microbursts create a particular hazard for sailboats because you don’t have time to prepare for them.


Looking Back at St. Martin on our way to Anguilla



We had a perfect weather forecast that day to sail from Grand Case, St. Martin to Road Bay, Anguilla.  













We were sailing along under sunny skies, broad reaching with winds in the 15-20 knot range. 











Perfect sailing conditions, had the main sail and the genoa up and we were having a fine time. 











Photo Credit: cpyoa..geekworkshosting.com
Suddenly, without warning, a microburst of wind over 60 knots descended upon us! One moment we were sailing merrily along, and the next moment the boat was practically knocked over, heeled over to 40 degrees. Although the mast and sails did not go into the water, it was damn close! This is probably what we looked like as we heeled over.

LA was at the helm. Melissa was on the low port side of the boat, fortunately wedged in under the dodger.  Martha, LuLu and I were on the high side of the boat and we were suddenly standing straight up watching our cockpit side curtains hold hundreds of gallons in them, causing the boat to remain heeled over and sending hundreds of gallons of water into the cockpit washing over Melissa’s legs up to her thighs. There was definitely a lot of “holding on” going on…Melissa was holding my waterproof camera between her feet and holding on to the dodger, Martha was holding LuLu with one hand and the lifelines with the other, and I was holding on to Martha with one hand and the lifelines with the other and Melissa with my feet. LA was holding on to the wheel and fighting it furiously. 

As LA struggled at the helm, the water drained out of the cockpit amazingly fast by the large cockpit drains. Genesis rounded up as our autopilot was no longer able to hold our course. LA was not able to control the direction of the boat with the wheel. The wind had overpowered the rudder and steering the boat was momentarily impossible. Fortunately, the boat rounded up…which is what a well-built sailboat is designed to do in these conditions.  As the boat headed up into the wind, LA quickly regained control by steering the boat off the wind to refill the sails and get Genesis back on course.  It had now begun to rain and the winds started building, so we needed to reduce our sails. We brought in the genoa, which required a great deal of strength on my part due to the high winds and stress on the boat. Time to bring out the electric winch!  


Our boat guests...true sailors! Martha and Melissa
Everything was over in a matter of minutes, but it certainly startled all of us.  In my early sailing days, this would have probably caused me to have a heart attack, as I was so afraid when the boat heeled over even 20 degrees I would start to cry. It took me a long, long time to get over my fear of boat heeling. However, not the case with Martha and Melissa! They were champs! They remained calm and handled it great.  Natural sailors, these women are!





The rain subsided, the winds subsided and we continued to sail along the coastline of Anguilla and had a beautiful sail.  The sun came out, and everything was perfect again! 




The beautiful coastline of Anguilla




It's true what they say about cruising sailing... 98% calmness and 2% fast action. It's amazing how quickly you forget about the fast action part and get back in the calmness mode.



Road Bay, Anguilla





I’ll have to admit, it was nice to get to the anchorage and have a cold beverage (or two)!



Tuesday, March 18, 2014

Tintamarre Island Adventure

Photo Credit: nicaboatcharters.com


An uninhabited island located 2 miles off the northeast coast of French Saint Martin, Tintamarre is a beautiful tranquil place to visit.  Known as “Flat Island”, Tintamarre lies within the boundary of the Saint Martin Nature Reserve.







Traveling with our boat guests Martha and Melissa, we departed Marigot one morning (starting point on map... the 3rd arrow after Simpson Bay), heading to Tintamarre for a day trip. We had to wait to get through the Marigot bridge, then had to stand off and wait for 20 minutes in Marigot Bay so that we could head back to the west side of the bridge to get fuel. 










Here's Melissa, starting out for the day feeling pretty good.









As it turned out, the night before we had all imbibed a bit too much and the morning of departure we were all suffering varying degrees of the "cocktail flu". Martha was looking pretty chipper... but she didn't feel too chipper. 









We rocked and rolled our way the entire two hour, 12 mile trip.  It was certainly did not help with our "flu" recovery. Melissa decided to lay down on the bow of the boat to catch some rays, but it only served to make her queasy. 
Our Approach to Tintamarre Island



When we arrived to the island, we picked up a mooring ball on “Baie Blanche”, the calm leeward side of the island. This side of the island is quite popular, with charter boats from St. Martin arriving with boat loads of tourists to snorkel, swim and beach comb. 









We were all a little worn out from the trip and still suffering from the night before. Everybody except me sacked out when we arrived.  









Captain LA and LuLu visit "Planet Naptune".  Admittedly, one of my favorite places, too, but for some reason I could not sleep.









All Alone in Paradise!


I read for a while until, late in the afternoon, the tourists departed the island, leaving the island deserted. 

I asked LA to run me to shore in the dinghy for some exploring. I just couldn't resist a deserted island! 








I walked down the beach and found a "trail" to walk across the 80-acre island. As I was soon to discover, "trail" was a pretty loose term. Looks like what happened is many people walked off the beach toward the brush in search of a trail... then after they saw what they were going to have to DO to actually hike that trail, they obviously turned back. The trail ran out just a few hundred yards off the beach.




Which is probably what I should have done as well! Oh no, not me! I was not going to let some dense scrub brush and cacti get in my way. It was pretty rugged and it was hard to find a trail.  I ambled around in a zigzag for quite a way (actually, I pretty much blazed my own trail) searching for anything that remotely resembled a trail. 




And to make matters worse, I met up with a mean little cactus who succeeded in latching on to me as I hiked past it. Ouch! Double Ouch! (insert favorite cuss word here).  If you look at the photo closely, you will see that there are several spines sticking in my leg at all angles. I couldn’t pull the spines out! They were stuck in too deeply!  I had to hop along for a few yards until I found a stick that I could wedge under the spines next to my skin and pry the cactus straight off!  (Ouch again and insert more cuss words here). Such are the hazards of hiking alone on a desert island!





Note to self... quit looking up and start looking down! I might not be able to see a trail, but at least I could keep a sharp eye out for cacti! Picking my way gingerly across the island, I found the remains of a cotton plantation, several house foundations, and the remains of an airstrip.  
 A bit of history... a man named Mr. van Romondt once inhabited the island. Legend has it that van Romondt, fed up with paying taxes in Sint Maarten, boarded up his “Mary’s Fancy” estate and sailed off to Tintamarre sometime around 1907. There he hired workers from Anguilla and Sint Maarten to build him a large manor house with a farm, where he cultivated Sea Island cotton and raised cattle and goats, and made cheese and butter which were renowned throughout the West Indies. 



The island has now reverted to scrub brush and wild goats. Obviously, the goats were a hardy prolific bunch as I came across a herd of them heading across the island. Which also had an added bonus that I could follow their trails. I got as close to them as I could without scaring them away, taking a few photos along the way, and followed them across the island. 



There was a pretty good-sized herd, about 30-40 of them...mamas, daddies, and babies in tow. 
Unfortunately, they were just grazing along the middle of the island and had no intention of going anywhere near the beach, so alas, there were no trails leading to the beach. They ambled off, leaving me goatless, and on my own.






Being determined to reach the other side of the island, I finally found a place to get through the thick scrub brush to reach what I hoped was the windward beach.  I low-crawled under this tree and then crawled on my hands and knees through the bushes to finally come out on the other side... the beach!




The beach was wild and rocky and untamed. It was definitely not a place for swimming as the current was too rough. I could see all kinds of fish swimming in the surf.













I meandered down the beach and had a great late-afternoon view of the island of St. Martin. 











It was getting late and I needed to make my way back to the other side of the island.  I found a big trail that led back to the island’s interior. It looked like the lower east side of the island was the way most of the beachcombers crossed the island. I was sorry I had not come across this nice trail when I started this little adventure!




Aah... not so fast, Miss Robinson Crusoe! The nice trail ran out quickly and once again I was faced with scrub brush and cacti. I knew that tourists had to be hiking across this island... but where, oh where, did they cross???

I picked my way carefully back, looking down the whole way. The brush got thick as I approached the leeward side of the island. I found a sand trail through the brush and suddenly the beach appeared.




I was relieved when I saw my beloved Genesis waiting for me.  LA was already on the bow scanning the beach and waiting for my appearance. Fortunately, this was not his first rodeo dealing with me and deserted beaches, so he was not worried.









I radioed LA on the handheld VHF and he came over in the dinghy and picked me up.  It was time to head back to St. Martin.  Everyone on the boat was well rested, and ready to head back to St. Martin for a night of fun.








The sunset put on quite a show for us as we leisurely motored over to Grand Case in a short 45 minutes.

There is a lot of history about this tiny island... involving kings, a navy, and an airline. Want to know more?  Click on these links:
Tintamarre: A History
The Smallest Kingdom in the World